A Week With a Jeep on Kauai

Day 1: Lihue and the East Coast

The roosters were everywhere, and this is no farm. This is at the Lihue Airport, Kauai's main airport which has no walls and is built like an outdoor pavilion. The rust colored birds run alongside the baggage claim and across the streets. Each "cock-a-doodle-do" is yelped as the roosters' desperate last words.

At Budget we choose a Jeep as our vehicle for the week. It is the perfect vacation-mobile for exploring Kauai. Open air, 4 wheel-drive and room for surfboards. Thank goodness the iPhone can tell us how to take the soft top on and off. Maneuvering the rooftop proves to be the first adventure of the trip. So many latches, zippers and velcro! When we tell the Budget representative we are staying at the Marriott her eyes light up and she tells us that is the location of her daughter's prom. It is indeed strange and wonderful for this Pittsburgher to imagine high school prom at a beachfront resort with palm trees and a pillared pool terrace.

The property is situated on Kalapaki Beach, a sheltered nook of ocean with calm waters surrounded by lush green cliffs. From Duke's Barefoot Bar we watch the paddle boarders on their baby bump of a wave and eat crab and macadamian nut dumplings and a mahi mahi sandwich under an umbrella.

Kauai is an almost circular island with one main highway built in a circle along the coast that ends at the Na Pali Coast on the northwest side of the island. All the beaches are public access giving the green light for everyone to roam just about anywhere sandy. During our quest North from Lihue for groceries we pick up three blond lady beach bum hitchhikers who promise us good karma for the rest of our vacation and become instant tour guides. They warn us not to speed and point out the coastal bike path, Java Kai and the nude beach before we drop them at Duanes Ono Char-Burger. The three have been on Kauai no fewer than three months, all working at an organic farm. With some food basics, including Mauna Loa dark chocolate-covered macadamian nuts, in our grocery bag, we stock the kitchenette for the week.

Later, at the easygoing hole-in-the-wall Hamura Saimin, we try the island noodle tradition. Sitting at the S-shaped counter under florescent lights, we eat steaming bowls of noodles (saimin) with ham, cabbage and green onions, and chicken skewers on the side. The place is full of locals and I watch the young boy with a tan and a salt and pepper buzz cut next to me put my chopstick skills to shame. We follow the lead when he and his father order the lilikoi chiffon pie and get a slice of the fluffy green dessert for ourselves.


Day 2: Poipu and the South Coast

In the far west time zone of Kauai, rising early is no problem. We start the day at the surf shop by Kalapaki Beach and rent snorkel gear and a longboard for the week. The two young locals operating the surf shop were happy to "talk story" for a while, sharing their favorite island beaches including Anini, Poipu and Kalapaki. In the car we turn up KKCR radio 91.9 FM, Kauai's community radio with local DJs, news and talk shows. We love this station and listen all week to slack key guitar music, reggae, jazz and island discussions including the controversy of building on a burial ground.

On the way to Poipu we drive through the Tree Tunnel on Highway 520, a lush canopy of swamp mahogany trees arching over the road. Before settling at Poipu Beach we journey to the beaches as far west as Spouting Horn Beach Park which indeed spouts water occasionally through the hole of a lava cave.



Poipu Beach is a perfect ocean playground with modest waves for longboarding and reef with fish for snorkeling. Between two coves of calm clear water is a sandbar and black lava rocks which exposes itself during low tides. Roosters crow from the beach. We see bunches of tropical fish during our snorkel: parrot fish, yellow striped fish and some with glowing blue spots. The South coast of Kauai is the most dependable sun during the winter and at Poipu we find warm clear conditions.



At the Koloa Fish Market in the historic plantation town of Koloa we pick up a Hawaiian plate lunch and some "poke", cubed marinated raw tuna. The take out is speedy and fresh. Ruby cubes of "poke" are deliciously seasoned with marinade, scallions and sesame seeds and the plate lunch is a generous serving of pork wrapped in taro leaves, rice, grass jelly noodles, salsa and yes, more "poke"!





Rolling into the back parking lot of Lihue's K-Mart we catch the local produce market held on Mondays at 3PM. For dessert we share a heaping coconut/passion fruit shave ice. Planning on smoothies for tomorrow's breakfast, we stroll the market for fruit and enjoy our sweet and slushy refreshment. I didn't recognize many of the pods and prickly wares. After sampling a few tangy items from the enthusiastic women with warm wrinkled smiles, we piled our bag with starfruit, pineapple, lilikoi, papaya and a strange citrus cousin of the grapefruit. Many of the vendors do not actually have farms but just a few trees on their property.





Back at Kalapaki, we drink cans of a Maui IPA on the ground level porch, and watch the resident animals-a cat and some chickens-parade around the courtyard.

The nearby Kauai Beach Resort hosts the E Kanikapila Kakou Hawaiian music singalong and storytelling, a free gathering during which local musicians play and tell the stories behind the songs. "I have the voice of Valium" says Puakea Nogelmeier, Hawaiian language specialist, translator and composer, after performing a smooth ballad. Hau'oli Akaka, on guitar for most of the evening, performs a gorgeously gestural hula on his knees during a lullaby, clapping along with "ili ili" stones. It is moving to listen to them sing and explain the richly nuanced and metaphoric Hawaiian songs.

For dinner we discover the sole restaurant in Wailua open past 9 PM and dig into some pizza.


Day 3: Hanalei and the North Coast

Today we drive to the end of the road, but first, we make fresh pineapple-papaya-passion fruit-star fruit smoothies and wake up watching the roosters on the porch as the morning clouds lift. Driving North, we fuel ourselves with coffee from Java Kai micro-roastery in Kapaa and continue past the green toothy peaks near Anahola to get to the North coast.



The beach hopping begins with Hanalei Bay (as in Puff the Magic Dragon's "land called Hanalei"). Though its windy on the North shore this time of year, the water is aqua blue and each beach cove uncrowded. We stop on the West side of Hanalei Bay to watch some surfers, followed by meanderings at Tunnels Beach and Ke'e Beach, known for snorkeling during calmer tides. Ke'e Beach is truly the end of the road with a trailhead that leads hikers along the Na Pali coast. On the East side of Hanalei Bay near the pier kitesurfers take advantage of the high winds and the views of lush tiered greenery surround the beach.






The Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market offers a sweet sunny lunch spot with picnic tables in the grass along a river and more views of craggy emerald costal peaks. We share meaty ceviche and a burger and soak up the warm midday sun.



Anini Beach is where we splash into the ocean with snorkels. The reef looks extensive and close to shore. The beach is a narrow strip of sand with lots of knobby trees wilting over the ocean. Since the visibility underwater is not conducive to seeing fish, I made my swim into a paddle on the longboard. Kennedy says I look like I am inventing a new sport with my snorkel gear still on as I paddle.

And so we leave the windy north coast having put the roof on and off the Jeep three times today. On the other side of Anahola's green bends is Kealia Beach where Kennedy finds his wave for surfing and I find my yoga practice onshore in the early evening cool. Barbeque and pot lingers in the air and a fat rainbow reveals itself arching over the beach.



Taking the long way home, we see the 40-ft. Opaeka'a Falls cascading near the Wailua River. Also nearby is Kauai's Hindu Monastery situated in rainforest. Opposite the falls are the short stone walls of Poli'ahu Heiau, a temple of human sacrifice, which is built from black lava rocks carried one at a time from the Wailua River Valley.





In the open air shopping center next to Lihue's Marriott Resort, a group of teenage girls wearing frayed cloth skirts rolled low on the hips are being coached in hula by a slim ponytailed man who shows his band of tatoos each time he lifts his shirt to demonstrate the intricate hip movements. First hip circles, then hip circles dipping forward and back and moving on to the S-shaped swivel. He sasses the girls to focus. Then they get into a cluster formation and begin practicing a routine accompanied by ukulele, their youthful voices singing together in unison.

Our waiter Jay is the entertainment for the evening at the shopping center's diner, a witty fun filmmaker with a big personality. He was like a third dinner guest festively toasting, inviting Kennedy to golf, revealing stories of lifting movies during his youth in Florida and discussing the town's oddballs who gather at the tavern.

To unwind, we soak in one of the hot tubs adorned with regal black and white tiling. Ah, vacation.


Day 4: Waimea and the West

More improvised smoothies and Kauai Coffee get us on the road for Kennedy's morning surf in Poipu. I practice yoga in the beach's cool morning air. Of course the roosters were there too.



Around noon we continue West on highway 50 stopping at 'Ele'ele's Grinds Cafe for some "grinds" as they call food on the island. We set up at the picnic table under a giant tree because we can't stand to be indoors in paradise, and feast on breakfast for lunch: pizza scramble for him, mahi mahi breakfast for her with eggs, rice and potatoes.



No one was panning at rocky Salt Pond Beach when we visited, although we did watch a local boy spearfish, tiptoeing and lunging along the rocks. The beach is known for extracting Kauai's pink salt from the shallow waters.





We love the Jeep for letting in the sun and breeze. At Kauai's wild west settlement town, Waimea, the journey turns inland on Waimea Canyon Drive for a scenic winding drive at the edge of the Waimea Canyon. The scenic overlook reveals the canyon's distinct red dirt as well as brown and green patchy layers of earth.




Beyond the canyon to the North is Koke'e State Park, home to the Alaka'i Swamp and plenty of wildlife and trails. We drive to the Kalalau Valley lookout where the ridges of the Na Pali coast can be seen, but we only catch glimpses through the blowing clouds.



Pick up trucks park on the sand at Kehake Beach and we follow suit with our Jeep. Facing southwest, this endless beach with velvet sand is prime for sunset-watching. Armadas of local boogie boarding teens move nimbly throwing 360's on the towering waves. We see whales not far beyond the surfers; spouting foam and tails are spotted by the chatty dude with binoculars parked next to us. He sends us further west on the beach to watch the pros catch the longest lefts on the island at "Infinities" and watch the sunset. Sitting on the roof of the Jeep we crack a beer and watch the sun go down over the Pacific.





The Waimea Brewing Company is inviting with live Hawaiian music and fat wicker chairs in an old plantation cottage. The Captain Cook IPA is hoppy and aromatic and I eat sweet and meaty short ribs for dinner. Kennedy has the swordfish with pineapple salsa and as we finish dinner and our day's adventure the band plays Israel Kamakawiwo's version of Somewhere Over the Rainbow.



Day 5: Na Pali Coast, the End of the Road

This morning we return to the end of the road at Ke'e Beach ready to experience the Na Pali coast with a hike to Hanakapi'ai Falls. The first two miles run along the coast and then at Hanakapi'ai Beach the trail turns into the forest for the remaining two miles to the 200-ft falls. We finish our fruit smoothies from the Aloha Juice Cart in Hanalei and have Mauna Loa dark chocolate-covered macadamian nuts for the trail.


The first two miles wind along the edge of the coast. Hundreds of feet down 15-20 ft waves thunderously crash into the cliffs. Layers of the giant lush ridges jutting out into the aqua blue ocean compose the stunning and powerful views. We see more whales in the distance spouting foam and slapping tails.






After a stream crossing, we reach rocky Hanakapi'ai Beach where two scrappy young men are camping and playing guitar, the ocean roaring behind them. A sign displays about 20 tally marks - a count of those who have been swallowed by the ocean at this site. The trail turns into the jungle and the next two miles are wetter and more challenging with several additional stream crossings. Towering vines, hearty bamboo clusters, orchids and coffee trees line the trail. The final stretch continues upstream and the swish of rushing water grows as we reach a vast clearing with one of nature's horseshoe-shaped walls of green growth dwarfing us.





The 200-ft. Hanakapi'ai Falls shoot into the lagoon in a narrow powerful stream. Only with another human being in sight can I sense the bigness of this clearing. It is a stunning end to the trail. Ready with my swimsuit I just have to go for a dip, to bathe in nature's clear cool waters. It is a brief one. I wade in and dunk under the first refreshing, then almost immediately icy water water and tingly pains start in my feet. This is a whole and satisfying journey.







After a Snickers break we turn around. The poorly marked route of the return trek tests my panic mode. We stray from the trail several times before meeting another lost couple and trusting our inner GPS' to get back on track. The hike takes six hours total and after all the walking in boots, the contours of my Birkenstocks feel amazing. Kennedy is chasing roosters in the parking lot.

We watch the sun go down leaving amber hues over Makana Mountain (Bali Hai) in Princeville. Surfers are riding impressive waves near the St. Regis.

Kapa'a's Mermaid Cafe is a small outdoor patio restaurant specializing in vegetarian and ahi tuna dishes. For dinner I get the tuna wrap with pesto aioli and cilantro and Kennedy orders a spicy coconut tofu vegetable curry. My Thai iced tea was topped with coconut milk. All was delicious and nourishing.

Back at the Marriott I took a hot tub soak for my sore hiking legs and enjoyed a conversation with two local 11th grade boys- two bright spirits who say they often hang at Kalapaki Beach and the resort. When I hear them rambling to each other at lightning speed I realize I am listening to pidgin, the island slang. When they address me they break from it and speak with perfect grammar. The outgoing one says his friends actually call him "Pidgin Peter." He is from Ele'ele. The boys don't have school tomorrow because of "Furlough Fridays." Peter says they only have three days of school this week because 'they' cant afford to pay the teachers. Pidgin Peter is a boogie boarder and his friend surfs. They paddle outrigger canoes at Kalapaki Beach and like swimming in the pool here. They tell me I could have drunk the water at the falls today, its so clean, although they wouldn't recommend it unless I had to. They say Polihale on the West coast is awesome and driving on the rocky road to get there will feel like our "butts are vibrating." They swim in the wet caves on the North coast and say Anini is the best for snorkelling. They wanted to know if I saw the long mossy rock that is like a waterslide during the hike today (I didn't) and what kind of car we rented and what I did in NY and what I do for in SF for fun. Peter has been to NY and remembers walking the Brooklyn Bridge and around Times Square and the big B&H camera store. Peter isn't sure if he'll stay on Kauai after highschool, says he "might go to college or something." His friend is thinking about staying for a bit and then joining the Coast Guard. Sometimes with their friends they say they have ragers at Kehaka Beach. According to the boys Kauai police have an eye out for drownings and drug busts. Peter recounts waking from his sleep during an earthquake on the island. He asks me where Haiti is.


Day 6: Chasing Sunshine, the Best of Winter Beaches

After a relaxing morning practicing yoga on Kalapaki Beach and drinking Kauai Coffee on the pillared resort terrace, Kennedy and I take the top off the Jeep and drive to the south coast where the sunshine and beaches are best in February. Sitting on a sunny stoop, we share a pineapple and pepperoni pizza from Pizzetta in Koloa's strip of cute shops. Jungle Girl is my favorite with lots of fun rompers and Eastern influenced little pretty things.

In the Jeep we were able to drive the dirt road along the Maha'ulpu Heritage Trail east of Shipwreck's Beach. We stop at several long beaches with golden dunes and pines. This stretch is Kauai's last accessible undeveloped coast.

Poipu Beach is perfect again! Kennedy paddles out to surf and I snorkel along the reef, connecting to the quiet otherworldly life of the ocean. Its really good underwater scenery today and I see striped angel fish, parrot fish, more yellow stripes, a cool caterpillar-like fish with scalloped fins, tiny purple and white horizontally striped ones, fish with blue beauty marks and some with a beaks and stringy tails. We walk out to the black rock sandbar and later Kennedy paddles out with me as I ride a couple of small waves with the longboard. Back on the beach I learn some history, reading "Kauai: The Seperate Kingdom." On the way to the car we see an active sea turtle and a squaking monk seal on the sand.

Now we drive to the other end of the road: Polihale Beach for sunset. The views along the west coast glow gold with grassy fields and red cliffs. From endless Polihale beach we can see Nihau and tiny Lehua Island in the distance. The waves rumble as the giant glowing ball of sun passes below a cloud strip and then into the ocean.




Hanapepe, called Kauai's "biggest little town" bustled with the Friday Night Art Walk, during which the galleries stay open late, food carts sell snacks in the street and Westside Smitty plays music in front of Talk Story Bookstore. I have a Mahi Mahi taco and guva juice from the Monster Taco cart and Kennedy munches on Thai chicken curry. Most special is pie from the Fresh Slice cart: spicy apple pie-a smoky version with jalepenos and toasted pinenuts and the chocolate coconut pie-a macaroon lovers ooey gooey fantasy. We find the most interesting collection to be that of vintage island maps, books, and sculpture collected over 30 years by a woman who grew up in London. She finds it bittersweet when an item sells because she has to give away something irreplaceable from her collection. The pieces have character and capture a sense of time and place in her life.






Day 7: Local Flavor

KKCR broadcasts the surf report each day on the radio. We head to the east coast's Kealia Beach picking up a coconut, banana, macadamian nut and whipcream waffle from Java Kai and a loaf of sweet pineapple bread from Country Moon Rising bakery in Kapa'a to make sandwiches for later. The long beach is peppered with local weekend warriors and the sun feels intense.





As we get back in the car a man who has also rented a Jeep asks us how to operate and secure the roof. It is satisfying to be able to share directions after our week of trial and error. Our next mission is to wash the Jeep. After driving on dirt roads, sand and especially the mud at Polihale the grime on the Jeep tells a story-one that we'll keep secret from Budget rental. With a soft top we can't go through the swirling drive through car wash so we take a recommendation to check out a girls softball team car wash fundraiser on our way back to Lihue. They all laugh as we pulled in with the mud-caked Jeep and after surveying the vehicle from all angles the tough looking teens turn on the hose and scrub it clean. We eat a hot dog with the coach as we wait-a former teacher from Santa Barbara whose granddaughter lives on the island.



At Wailua's Coconut Marketplace we catch the end of the free lunchtime hula show in the outdoor plaza. Two swaying senior women in long colorful print dresses play ukulele as a group of youthful women and children in hula skirts perform the gentle gestural movements.



We spend the rest of the day at Kalapaki Beach at the resort skipping from the beach to the majestic pool and the hot tub. The calm waters at this beach are conducive to a leisurely paddle and float on the longboard. Kennedy plays beach volleyball with three local teens, each with tanned lean bodies and beaming white smiles. We take a night stroll from the beach to the diner where a skilled guitar player performs.



Day 8: Aloha and Mihalo

On our last day we enjoy another fresh sunny morning with coffee on the veranda and Sun Salutations on the beach. Playing in the ocean Kennedy snorkels with a sea turtle and I paddle into the small wave standing a few times. Looking out to the green cliffs is as exciting as it was upon arrival. Kauai is a magical island of incredible beauty and spirit. After returning our gear to the surf shop we eat lunch at the outdoor Kalapaki Beach Hut patio-ono, eggs, taro wedges and guava mango juice. Returning the well-used Jeep, an extension of our adventure sense, brings the trip to an end. Kauai is still America, but it is its own special island.