Being a surfer in Nova Scotia? Sounds a bit like being a farmer in New York City. Believe it or not, Nova Scotia has a thriving surf scene with miles of coast, numerous point breaks, fall hurricane swell and plenty of enthusiasts. I made the trip with a few surfers, one being the owner of a surf shop. We packed our big blue van and crossed the border.
The center of all the action is Lawrencetown Beach where locals begin catching waves as early as 6:30am. All you need is a thick wetsuit and booties to survive the chilly water. The female surfers even outnumbered the males during my visit. Some people spend nights sleeping on the beach's dunes to enjoy the sunrise and early morning waves. We heated scones on a burner and made coffee for the rocky beach.
That morning we met Bernie, a craft shop owner, who was picking up a surf board from the Nancy, who has the surf shop in Kennebunk, ME. Bernie led us to his home where we'd be camping on his land overlooking the Atlantic. What he didn't tell us is that his land is the highest point in the area with 360 degree views and is also home to four beautiful horses and a coop full of chickens.
After a surf check at several point breaks in the area, we hit the ocean at Lawrencetown Beach. With higher tides the breaks would be desirable but on this mild day, Lawrencetown Beach was the best bet. Bernie tell us that the beach used to be locals only where surfers were required to write their phone number in marker on their board containing a local area code, but during our visit residents were welcoming.
After visiting Bob's Pickles & Veggies and the Dutch Shop, we had compiled fresh greens, havarti, smoked gouda and pickles to enjoy with the lobster tails that Nancy brought. We cooked at our camp and spent the afternoon at Bernie's enjoying the stunning views. Lawrencetown is a lot of land without a lot of development.
Later we drove across the bridge into Halifax and visited the Propeller Brewing Company where everyone was purchasing "Growlers." "Growlers" are a jugs of ale which can be returned and refilled. The Split Crow Pub also carries local brews and offers outdoor sidewalk seating in a university neighborhood.
The following day we ventured beyond Lawrencetown to explore the coast into New Brunswick. Rocky beaches line the Bay of Fundy and the difference between high and low tide can extend about a mile. During low tide we ventured out onto the red clay ocean bottom to forage for clams. Holes were everywhere and within the hour we had a pot full of clams to cook for dinner. The clay was packed in perfectly smooth layers which we peeled to expose the clams. The landscape looked almost lunar with barren earth and occasional rocks and patches of seaweed.
Farms dot the fields and tidal pools have eroded rock formations along the coast. This road trip was totally spontaneous. Drive until you see something cool was our approach. At Fundy National Park we located a campsite and prepared dinner. A coyote was spotted crossing the road. With fresh clams, trout, grilled veggies and blueberry crumble pie, we were far from roughing it.
The journey home continued with natural wonders, beaches and water everywhere. As we approached Maine we were already discussing what to do during the next visit to Nova Scotia.
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