Lawrencetown, Nova Scotia: A Hotbed for Surfers?

Being a surfer in Nova Scotia? Sounds a bit like being a farmer in New York City. Believe it or not, Nova Scotia has a thriving surf scene with miles of coast, numerous point breaks, fall hurricane swell and plenty of enthusiasts. I made the trip with a few surfers, one being the owner of a surf shop. We packed our big blue van and crossed the border.



The center of all the action is Lawrencetown Beach where locals begin catching waves as early as 6:30am. All you need is a thick wetsuit and booties to survive the chilly water. The female surfers even outnumbered the males during my visit. Some people spend nights sleeping on the beach's dunes to enjoy the sunrise and early morning waves. We heated scones on a burner and made coffee for the rocky beach.



That morning we met Bernie, a craft shop owner, who was picking up a surf board from the Nancy, who has the surf shop in Kennebunk, ME. Bernie led us to his home where we'd be camping on his land overlooking the Atlantic. What he didn't tell us is that his land is the highest point in the area with 360 degree views and is also home to four beautiful horses and a coop full of chickens.



After a surf check at several point breaks in the area, we hit the ocean at Lawrencetown Beach. With higher tides the breaks would be desirable but on this mild day, Lawrencetown Beach was the best bet. Bernie tell us that the beach used to be locals only where surfers were required to write their phone number in marker on their board containing a local area code, but during our visit residents were welcoming.



After visiting Bob's Pickles & Veggies and the Dutch Shop, we had compiled fresh greens, havarti, smoked gouda and pickles to enjoy with the lobster tails that Nancy brought. We cooked at our camp and spent the afternoon at Bernie's enjoying the stunning views. Lawrencetown is a lot of land without a lot of development.



Later we drove across the bridge into Halifax and visited the Propeller Brewing Company where everyone was purchasing "Growlers." "Growlers" are a jugs of ale which can be returned and refilled. The Split Crow Pub also carries local brews and offers outdoor sidewalk seating in a university neighborhood.





The following day we ventured beyond Lawrencetown to explore the coast into New Brunswick. Rocky beaches line the Bay of Fundy and the difference between high and low tide can extend about a mile. During low tide we ventured out onto the red clay ocean bottom to forage for clams. Holes were everywhere and within the hour we had a pot full of clams to cook for dinner. The clay was packed in perfectly smooth layers which we peeled to expose the clams. The landscape looked almost lunar with barren earth and occasional rocks and patches of seaweed.







Farms dot the fields and tidal pools have eroded rock formations along the coast. This road trip was totally spontaneous. Drive until you see something cool was our approach. At Fundy National Park we located a campsite and prepared dinner. A coyote was spotted crossing the road. With fresh clams, trout, grilled veggies and blueberry crumble pie, we were far from roughing it.



The journey home continued with natural wonders, beaches and water everywhere. As we approached Maine we were already discussing what to do during the next visit to Nova Scotia.

Oh Canada! A Weekend in Montreal and Quebec

After doing some pre-trip research for the visit to Montreal and Quebec City, I was ready to eat my way through Canada. Canadian food you say? Thanks to the local farms, frommageries, vineyards and food festivals, agrotourism has become increasingly popular in Canada. Also, with books like The Omnivore's Dillemma and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle sweeping the country, the intrigue of regional food is on the rise.

The drive from the Northeast U.S. into Canada is full of natural beauty. Mountains and waterways with the occasional farm make for a scenic trip. As soon as we cross the border into Canada, we hear French pop on the radio. I try and test what I remember from highschool French class.



In Montreal, European influence is apparent with edgy fashions and plenty of bike riding. Skyscrapers do not scrape as high as in Chicago and New York and young people are everywhere. Our hosts who live on the West side of town have a small yard and patio (gasp-an appreciated luxury after living in New York.) We visit a terrasse at St. Denis, a thriving outdoor cafe, and Frenchy version of a beer garden. While we are outdoors in the evening I notice how content the locals are in t-shirts while visitors bundle in fleeces and scarves. Before going home we all enjoy a helping of chicken shwarma with pickled turnips and garlic potatoes from a Turkish joint.

In the morning we eat brunch at a neighborhood diner. I try "The Quebecois" breakfast which includes tomatoes and baked beans as well as sausage, eggs and a heaping pile of bacon. The baked beans are the highlight with chunks of ham cooked in. We move on the the Atwater Market where fresh flowers, produce and cheeses from local farmers are in abundance. The market is situated on the water where many residents come to fish.

Next stop, the Parc du Mont-Royale. With miles of walking paths, visitors can climb to the crest of the mountain where they can enjoy the best views of Montreal. The overlook helps people understand that Montreal is, in fact, an island.



We went East to get to Old Montreal or Vieux Montreal. There were at least eight wedding parties being photographed at the pillared and landscaped government buildings. An entertainer performed tricks with a whip in the streets and accidentally whiped off one of his dreadlocks. The nearby Vieux-Port is inaccessible as the walkways are far elevated from the water, but the many shops and cafes keep the area busy. Our group enjoys sangria at an airy bistro.

After a big day out we BBQ dinner for our host and sip Molsons Bleue on the patio.

Quebec City has a much older look and feel than Montreal as the fort and stone buildings still remain from the years of French occupancy. This year is the city's 400th anniversary for which they've built the below fountain monument. Green copper roofs are also a trademark of lower Quebec City.



After passing the houses of Parliament, we walk along the fort wall which extends into the sprawling Parc de l'Artillerie. The boardwalk named the Terasse Dufferin offers maple soft serve ice cream and excellent views across the water. The boardwalk leads straight to the Place Royale, a picturesque plaza in the heart of Basse-Ville. We stop for poutine in a small restaurant with windows overlooking the streets and enjoy the cheesy, greasy specialty. Though touristy, Basse-Ville is an unmissable bustling area of winding streets for pedestrians only. The funiculaire or the "Breakneck Stairs" will transport you between the upper and lower town.







The rue St. Jean brings Quebec City back to modern times lined with numerous restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs. We stop at Maurice for an outdoor drink where a curt waiter takes our order. This techno-filled spot is located just above street level, perfect for people watching.



We stayed just outside Qubec City in Sainte Anne de Beaupre, part of the Cote de Beaupre at The Motel Spring, a family owned complex with a breakfast restaurant. Also just across the water is the Ile d'Orleans, which offers many of the area's foodie tours on local farms. Our hostess tipped us off that visiting the Montmorency Falls after seven is free so off we went. The falls are higher than Niagra Falls and are illuminated at night.





Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre is a magnificent church along the Cote de Beaupre stretch surrounded by natural, artistic and agricultural attrections. Vineyards, galleries, frommageries and even a bee farm are some of the spots to stop and explore.



The waterfall on Mt. Sainte Anne carved a massive gorge in the landscape. Multiple viewing platforms and bridges are accessible with admission.





We stuck with edible products for souvenirs so instead of fast food on the drive home we enjoyed a cheese and fresh baguette snack.