
School is out for summer and during the last weekend before the kids arrive at camp, I took a trip to Baxter State Park in Northern Maine with my boyfriend and an Aussie couple. The goal: to climb Mt. Katahdin. At 5,267 ft., the summit of Katahdin is the highest point in Maine, and the hike to the top is the final stretch of the Appalachian Trail. With visions of moose, mountain terrain and Bill Bryson's "A Walk in the Woods," our expedition began.
We packed the roadtrip vehicle, an ancient 15-passenger blue van, with supplies for a comfortable night in the woods. At Baxter State Park, we experienced the less rugged side of camping, staying in spacious lean to's situated privately along Katahdin Stream, complete with picnic tables and fire pits. The price is right. For only nine dollars per person, the three-sided lean to's are large enough to sleep four to five people and are completely leak proof as they sit elevated from the earth and have large sloping roofs. Lean to's must be booked in advance through Baxter State Park.
After setting up camp, we took a short drive on the single-lane gravel road scanning every waterway for moose (and hopefully not black bears.) No sightings yet. Forest vegetation arched over the road. The day was cool but the guys in the car insisted on stopping at the natural waterslides so they could ride the shallow and frigid waterfalls that flow over eroded rock.
We settled in our lean to's along Katahdin Stream as the rain fell and tested how well the structures sheltered us from the elements. It was perfection. During the afternoon rain, we sipped wine, fed chocolate to the chipmunks and remained warm and dry. Later we dragged out our hillbilly horseshoe game and had a mean tournament, girls vs. guys. Graduation party games such as these make for fantastic camping activities.
Pasta with a spicy veggie sauce was made over the bunsen burners and we dressed the dinner/picnic table with a white cloth and candles. Very cushy for camping. We roasted corn on the cob and s'mores at the campire and listened to the rushing stream at dusk.
After a restful cool night in the open air, we rose early for our hike. Granola, O.J., coffee and watermelon fueled us for the trail. The morning was sunny and crisp, a perfect day for hiking Katahdin.
The first hour of the hike is perhaps the most beautiful as the trail meanders through the lush Maine woods along rushing water. Hikers pass Katahdin Stream Falls and steal views above the trees of the surrounding mountains. The hike is steep and rocky and eventually approaches the tree line. At the tree line, the trail becomes all boulders and the adventure transitions from a hike to a climb. This stretch separates the men from the boys. All fours are needed to climb the rocks and at the top of the boulders is an even steeper section of smaller rocks. I take a shower in bug spray. We joke about the mythical Flying Redneck Beetle, eat chocolate, trail mix and fruit and then press on. I am truly challenged by the the trail.
Finally we come to the plateau-the almost, almost there part. The trees have disappeared and all that surrounds hikers are sweeping valleys and rocky summits. Mossy rocks sit along the path and triangular rock mounds guide hikers to follow the vague path. The people at the summit are still tiny specks but gradually get larger. I blame my heavy breathing on the altitude. My hamstrings are happy to be on a gently sloping plateau.
We summit. Fuel up on more trailmix and enjoy the views. There is no civilization in sight, just pine trees and forest, lakes and mist, vast valleys stretching close to Canada. We take the token group shot at the Appalachian Trail/Katahdin Summit sign. The Aussie girl and I hope for a helicopter to appear and handle our dissent. We look out onto the Knife's Edge, the mile long trail some gutsy hikers tack on to the end of the hike. The Knife's Edge is only a couple feet wide for stretches with steep rock faces on either side. Gnarly.
The way down from Maine's highest point was hard on the knees but the scenery was even more enjoyable as the hiking became less strenuous. Down, down, down over the boulders and into the trees. Sunburned and bugbitten but feeling well-worked. At the waterfall, wicked with sweat we took a dunk in freezing water. The dip was brief but refreshing, a satisfying end to the adventure.
The post-hike refreshments were set up in the parking lot behind the van. Coffee, crackers and hummus never tasted so good. Our crew was absolutely beat and the lactic acid began to build in our muscles. We did it-we climbed the legendary Mt. Katahdin. And on the van ride home we finally saw what we were looking for-a moose!
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