Autumn in New York

This return to my blog is the first in a while due to the fact that since moving back to New York two months ago, life is spent on the subway. I now live in Brooklyn which requires a longer commute, but ultimately involves better living, more space and a washer/dryer in my apartment. BK is a place where the twelve-year-old girls fly past on their skateboards, the women wear comfortable footwear, people have outdoor patios and mom and pop shops still reign. BK is an attitude which I've embraced quickly.

We had our first snow in the city this week and it was beautiful. My roomate and I cut 60+ paper snowflakes out of maps and colorful magazine pictures and strung white fairy lights in our place. We had a fire in our firepit and hot cocoa and marshmellows. The 24 hour Christmas music station is permanently programmed in our stereo. We are in the spirit. Its good to be back here.

Lawrencetown, Nova Scotia: A Hotbed for Surfers?

Being a surfer in Nova Scotia? Sounds a bit like being a farmer in New York City. Believe it or not, Nova Scotia has a thriving surf scene with miles of coast, numerous point breaks, fall hurricane swell and plenty of enthusiasts. I made the trip with a few surfers, one being the owner of a surf shop. We packed our big blue van and crossed the border.



The center of all the action is Lawrencetown Beach where locals begin catching waves as early as 6:30am. All you need is a thick wetsuit and booties to survive the chilly water. The female surfers even outnumbered the males during my visit. Some people spend nights sleeping on the beach's dunes to enjoy the sunrise and early morning waves. We heated scones on a burner and made coffee for the rocky beach.



That morning we met Bernie, a craft shop owner, who was picking up a surf board from the Nancy, who has the surf shop in Kennebunk, ME. Bernie led us to his home where we'd be camping on his land overlooking the Atlantic. What he didn't tell us is that his land is the highest point in the area with 360 degree views and is also home to four beautiful horses and a coop full of chickens.



After a surf check at several point breaks in the area, we hit the ocean at Lawrencetown Beach. With higher tides the breaks would be desirable but on this mild day, Lawrencetown Beach was the best bet. Bernie tell us that the beach used to be locals only where surfers were required to write their phone number in marker on their board containing a local area code, but during our visit residents were welcoming.



After visiting Bob's Pickles & Veggies and the Dutch Shop, we had compiled fresh greens, havarti, smoked gouda and pickles to enjoy with the lobster tails that Nancy brought. We cooked at our camp and spent the afternoon at Bernie's enjoying the stunning views. Lawrencetown is a lot of land without a lot of development.



Later we drove across the bridge into Halifax and visited the Propeller Brewing Company where everyone was purchasing "Growlers." "Growlers" are a jugs of ale which can be returned and refilled. The Split Crow Pub also carries local brews and offers outdoor sidewalk seating in a university neighborhood.





The following day we ventured beyond Lawrencetown to explore the coast into New Brunswick. Rocky beaches line the Bay of Fundy and the difference between high and low tide can extend about a mile. During low tide we ventured out onto the red clay ocean bottom to forage for clams. Holes were everywhere and within the hour we had a pot full of clams to cook for dinner. The clay was packed in perfectly smooth layers which we peeled to expose the clams. The landscape looked almost lunar with barren earth and occasional rocks and patches of seaweed.







Farms dot the fields and tidal pools have eroded rock formations along the coast. This road trip was totally spontaneous. Drive until you see something cool was our approach. At Fundy National Park we located a campsite and prepared dinner. A coyote was spotted crossing the road. With fresh clams, trout, grilled veggies and blueberry crumble pie, we were far from roughing it.



The journey home continued with natural wonders, beaches and water everywhere. As we approached Maine we were already discussing what to do during the next visit to Nova Scotia.

Oh Canada! A Weekend in Montreal and Quebec

After doing some pre-trip research for the visit to Montreal and Quebec City, I was ready to eat my way through Canada. Canadian food you say? Thanks to the local farms, frommageries, vineyards and food festivals, agrotourism has become increasingly popular in Canada. Also, with books like The Omnivore's Dillemma and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle sweeping the country, the intrigue of regional food is on the rise.

The drive from the Northeast U.S. into Canada is full of natural beauty. Mountains and waterways with the occasional farm make for a scenic trip. As soon as we cross the border into Canada, we hear French pop on the radio. I try and test what I remember from highschool French class.



In Montreal, European influence is apparent with edgy fashions and plenty of bike riding. Skyscrapers do not scrape as high as in Chicago and New York and young people are everywhere. Our hosts who live on the West side of town have a small yard and patio (gasp-an appreciated luxury after living in New York.) We visit a terrasse at St. Denis, a thriving outdoor cafe, and Frenchy version of a beer garden. While we are outdoors in the evening I notice how content the locals are in t-shirts while visitors bundle in fleeces and scarves. Before going home we all enjoy a helping of chicken shwarma with pickled turnips and garlic potatoes from a Turkish joint.

In the morning we eat brunch at a neighborhood diner. I try "The Quebecois" breakfast which includes tomatoes and baked beans as well as sausage, eggs and a heaping pile of bacon. The baked beans are the highlight with chunks of ham cooked in. We move on the the Atwater Market where fresh flowers, produce and cheeses from local farmers are in abundance. The market is situated on the water where many residents come to fish.

Next stop, the Parc du Mont-Royale. With miles of walking paths, visitors can climb to the crest of the mountain where they can enjoy the best views of Montreal. The overlook helps people understand that Montreal is, in fact, an island.



We went East to get to Old Montreal or Vieux Montreal. There were at least eight wedding parties being photographed at the pillared and landscaped government buildings. An entertainer performed tricks with a whip in the streets and accidentally whiped off one of his dreadlocks. The nearby Vieux-Port is inaccessible as the walkways are far elevated from the water, but the many shops and cafes keep the area busy. Our group enjoys sangria at an airy bistro.

After a big day out we BBQ dinner for our host and sip Molsons Bleue on the patio.

Quebec City has a much older look and feel than Montreal as the fort and stone buildings still remain from the years of French occupancy. This year is the city's 400th anniversary for which they've built the below fountain monument. Green copper roofs are also a trademark of lower Quebec City.



After passing the houses of Parliament, we walk along the fort wall which extends into the sprawling Parc de l'Artillerie. The boardwalk named the Terasse Dufferin offers maple soft serve ice cream and excellent views across the water. The boardwalk leads straight to the Place Royale, a picturesque plaza in the heart of Basse-Ville. We stop for poutine in a small restaurant with windows overlooking the streets and enjoy the cheesy, greasy specialty. Though touristy, Basse-Ville is an unmissable bustling area of winding streets for pedestrians only. The funiculaire or the "Breakneck Stairs" will transport you between the upper and lower town.







The rue St. Jean brings Quebec City back to modern times lined with numerous restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs. We stop at Maurice for an outdoor drink where a curt waiter takes our order. This techno-filled spot is located just above street level, perfect for people watching.



We stayed just outside Qubec City in Sainte Anne de Beaupre, part of the Cote de Beaupre at The Motel Spring, a family owned complex with a breakfast restaurant. Also just across the water is the Ile d'Orleans, which offers many of the area's foodie tours on local farms. Our hostess tipped us off that visiting the Montmorency Falls after seven is free so off we went. The falls are higher than Niagra Falls and are illuminated at night.





Basilique Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre is a magnificent church along the Cote de Beaupre stretch surrounded by natural, artistic and agricultural attrections. Vineyards, galleries, frommageries and even a bee farm are some of the spots to stop and explore.



The waterfall on Mt. Sainte Anne carved a massive gorge in the landscape. Multiple viewing platforms and bridges are accessible with admission.





We stuck with edible products for souvenirs so instead of fast food on the drive home we enjoyed a cheese and fresh baguette snack.

Waterville's Finest

Waterville, Maine is a summertime town full of family businesses and outdoorsy folk. Girls in white dresses and John Deere Tractors? These are a few of my favorite things in Waterville:

1. Riverside Cafe: This cafe/bakery/wine shop is at its best during Sunday brunch. Live guitarists and fiddlers play throughout the morning and lobster eggs benedict, scallion and crab quiche, molasses cookies and berry gelato are just some of the tasty delights on the menu. Don't leave without picking up a bottle of wine (or two) from the adjacent shop.

2. Yard Sales: Just drive down any residential road in Waterville and you are sure to pass yard sales that last all summer. And when the summer is over, many cover the table with a tarp and open again when the snow melts off from the winter. Why? Because one's trash is another's treasure.

3. TJ's Pool Hall: At this family-owned joint, you can play on one of the 30 pool tables, choose music at the jukebox and enjoy a pitcher of beer. Look for Tyler, the nine-year-old daughter in wheely sneakers-she's a real pool shark.

4. Line Dancing at Coyote's: Get out your cowboy boots and cut a rug at Coyote's. The local bar offers country line dancing nights that are a hoot.

5. Early Bird Cafe: Don't go if you are on a diet-The Early Bird Cafe is the best greasy spoon in town. The grilled triple berry muffin and number five are highly recommended.

6. Railroad Square Cinemas: The movie theater plays the best current indy films and is a host of a major film festival during the summer. Go on Monday nights when tickets are discounted.

7. Bootleggers: Waterville's watering hole with a roof deck. Get your free popcorn snack on the way in and enjoy a pint under the stars.

8. Freedom Cafe: This dining establishment is owned by a Colby College professor and offers plenty of Southern comfort food. The prix fixe dinner menu includes a vegetable, side, meat and dessert and the mac and cheese has quite a following. Wash it all down with the sweet iced tea. Gospel brunch on Sunday.

9. The Green Spot: This specialty grocery store offers perfect picnic fare. From fine cheeses and baked goods to blueberry jam and fiddleheads, The Green Spot has the freshest ingredients to offer gourmands.

10. Gifford's: Everybody's favorite! Moosetracks, Maine Black Bear and Caribou Caramel are some of the unmatched ice cream flavors that this ice cream stand scoops everyday. Make an evening of it with a game of mini golf and some hits in the batting cages.

New Hampshire's Mt. Moosilauke, Flume Gorge and the Kangamangus Highway

When people visit New Hampshire's White Mountain National Forest, they flock to Mt. Washington, the tallest peak, however, Mt. Moosilauke, situated in the Southern part of the forest, is another peak worth the trip.

To hike to the summit is an 11-mile return trip which gradually climbs about 2,000 feet. The mount is also part of the Appalachian Trail so during the autumn months, many through hikers pass on their way to Katahdin.



Our crew camped at Swain Brook campground located about 10 minutes from the trail head. The facility was private and clean with shower, ice and other amenities (including foosball) on site.





The hike remains beneath the tree line for about 90 percent of the trek and there are a couple different trails that lead hikers to the summit. The paths weave through the Maine woods, offering nature as it is described in the writing of Thoreau. Temperate weather and rushing brooks are part of the climb. All ages and types of people were at the summit of this majestic mountain.





After the hike, stop at the Mt. Moosilauke Lodge (located at the foot of the mountain) for coffee and muffins. The lodge is affiliated with Dartmouth College and offers sweeping views of the White Mountains. The great room houses a fireplace, piano, rows of picnic tables and an unexpected disco ball, and a porch is just outside for lounging.

Another treat is a dip in one of the area's many swimming holes. Keep your eyes peeled while driving along the rivers in the Mt. Moosilauke vicinity and you'll be sure to find a prime spot with rocks for sunning and clean streams for swimming.



If you decide not to cook over the campfire, stop at The Common Man's Boiler Room restaurant for hearty fare and a pint of the Common Man's Ale. The tasty burgers make for a satisfying feed at the end of a long day in the woods.



While in the area, visit Flume Gorge, a natural crevasse full of waterfalls and mossy plant life to discover. The two mile loop is a well paved tourist attraction that presents the gorge and surrounding grounds. The massive Flume Gorge, created by molten rock, was unknown until the early 1900's when a 93-year old woman discovered the natural wonder on a fishing trip.





The Kangamangus Highway which carves through the White Mountains is the most scenic way to tour the area. Just be sure to watch out for moose!

Smalls Falls

If you've got half a day, Smalls Fall is a peaceful outdoor spot for a picnic and a swim. Pack a cooler and eat on a rock or at a picnic table gazebo. Then walk along the trail parallel to the falls. The trip is best on a hot day when you can take advantage of the swimming holes. A few pools are even deep enough for cliff jumping-just be prepared for the cold water.

Havin' a Hangi

The hangi or earth oven is the best known traditional form of cooking for Maori. With so many Kiwi boys at camp, we thought it appropriate to celebrate a birthday with a hangi. As the smell of cooked food permeated the air, we knew we were in for more than our average BBQ.



















The following instructions are from www.MaoriFood.com:
1. SITE:
The selection of the site will depend on -
a) Access to water for soaking bags and cloths to create steam.
b) Tillage of soil for ease of digging the pit.
Arrange to dig your hole in a piece of land that can be utilised in another way when you have finished
making your hangi. Ashes make good compost.
For example a piece of land near the vegetable garden is always a good choice.
If the hole is to be dug in the lawn remove the top layer of grass and put it back afterwards.
c) Wind direction which could blow over the stack or endanger buildings. Keep a watchful eye on your fire
and make sure it is well away from buildings, trees or anything that which may catch a flying spark.
Make sure it is at least 3 metres away from the nearest object and nowhere near any overhead
obstructions.

2. MATERIALS :
All varieties of meat, poultry, vegetables and steamed puddings can be cooked in the hangi.
The preparation of the food is the same as preparing food to be cooked on an electric stove.
The food should be prepared and put in containers that should be placed within easy reach of the hangi.
Beef, lamb, pork, poultry, potatoes, kumara, pumpkin, can all be cooked in the hangi.
Green vegetables are better cooked in conventional ways.

3. Gear Check List : Stones
When heated the stones will supply the heat for cooking the food, so it is important to choose
stones that do not crumble in the heating or shatter too readily.
The best stones to use are those that have been tried by the local people.
Igneous (volcanic) are better than metamorphic or sedimentary (e.g. sandstone) rocks.
There are several types of rock suitable:
Auckland Blue - this is a type of hard, brittle, blue- metal rock and black rock.
Riverhead Rock - round loaf sized stones are best.
Volcanic Rock - this is the type of rock used during the depression to make stone walls.
It is good rock to use, heats quickly, doesn't throw out chips and is light to handle.
Choosing the rock takes some skill. Take a hammer with you and hit each rock, only those with a high
pitched ringing noise are suitable . Kawakawa Bay and Dargaville are both sites nearest to Auckland.
(some people today use fire bricks mixed with some of the stones mentioned above.)
The number of stones necessary will depend on the type of stone and size.
For up to a party of 25 persons, you will need sufficient to fill a hole approximately 0.5 metres deep.
Tapering from approximately 1 metre in diameter at the bottom (see below "making the hole").
The stones must be thoroughly dried out before use.

3. Gear Check List :Timber
A mixture of dry timber and slow burning logs is best for a hangi.
Hardwood timber is best for the fire because it gives out more heat.
A good choice is lighter timber underneath and hardwood on top.
You need about 45 pieces of wood about 1 metre long and 5 to 8 cm's wide.

4. Newspaper and Kindling :

5. Food Baskets:
Depending on what you serve and how many people you want to feed.
You will need about 3 food baskets or steamer type containers.
One for the meat, poultry and vegetables.
You can make the baskets from small mesh chicken netting by cutting a square and folding the corners up.
Remember to allow for good sides when you are working out the size of the baskets.
Good size baskets are one 25 - 30 cm's square and two smaller ones 15 - 20 cm's square.
(alternatively, steamer type containers can be used).
Local variations can range from elaborately welded perforated steel containers to bakers wire welded trays.

6. Preparation:
Hangi, takes a long time to prepare, so do everything possible, the day before.
Make the baskets.
Cut the wood.
Dig the hole. (cover if left overnight)
The size of the hole depends on the size of the food basket(s).
Place wood and stones by the hole, make sure they are covered if left over night.
Prepare the meat and vegetables.
If the food is to be prepared from a kitchen, have the meat, poultry and vegetables ready to be placed in the
baskets.
For special type food wrap in muslin cloth. (stuffing, steam puddings)

7. Covering:
Two types of covering are needed - mutton cloth and sacking.
Mutton cloth is used to the cover the food and the sides of the baskets before they are put in the hole.
A much heavier covering is needed to keep the soil from getting into the food once the food has been put
on the heated rocks.
You will need four to five pieces of sacking for this. One to lay over the food, three down the sides of the basket and one for each end of the holes.

8. Other Gear:
Long handled shovel, rake, hose.

9. Outset:
When all the preparation is done place the basket(s) on the ground and mark out the ground around the
basket.
Leave at least 4 inches of clearance around the outside edges of the basket(s).
Soak the sacks and white cloth in a bucket of cold water.
Crumple sheets of newspaper one at a time and put them in the hole, save one double piece and roll it up like
a wick.
Put it in the hole near one edge (you will need this to light the paper after you have put in the the wood and rocks).
Put the kindling in, then start building a pyre by putting the bigger wood on.
After the wood reaches ground level, it must be placed in a special way.
The pyre should be built over the pit by placing alternate layers of wood at right angles to the layer below it.
Lay the pieces of wood side by side across the top of the hole, leaving a half inch gap between each
piece until the hole is covered.
On top of this layer put another row, laying it in the opposite direction. As the pyre is being erected, the
stones should be placed in three or four layers at regular intervals throughout it in a pyramid shape.
Build the fire very solidly.
It has to burn for at least an hour or so without being replenished and must have plenty of body.
Light the newspaper wick. Keep a constant eye on your fire.
The rocks will begin to change colour when they are hot. (the volcanic rock will go white)
Before long the wood will burn down and the heated rocks fall into the hole. As the pyre burns down,
replenish it after the first hour with more wood and return any displaced stones to it. (don't forget the fire should burn for two to three hours)
Now is the time to fill the food baskets.
Place the baskets on a bench, arrange the seasoned meat on the bottom carefully, place poultry on top of
meat, place a smaller basket on top of bottom basket and put potato and kumara (sweet potato) inside,
place pumpkin and specialty food on top and cover with cabbage or watercress. Sprinkle salt over the food and cover with the white cotton cloth. Put the food baskets near the hole. Now check that the wet sacking is near the hole.
After 11/2 to 21/2 hours the pit should be covered in ashes and stones as the fire has burnt through.
At this stage clean the pit.
If the pit is not cleaned properly, the ash will spread through the hangi when the water is applied to create
steam.
Some people like the smokey taste of meat cooked with the embers left in the hole.
Remove all the unburn't pieces of wood, raking the hot rocks to one side of the hangi hole with a
long handled shovel.
Make a flat bed out of the rocks and throw about two handfuls of cold water on the rocks.
The jet of steam will carry the ash away. The stones should be left laying on the embers.
Place the baskets of food onto the hot rocks. Throw several quarts of water over the food and stones to produce clouds of steam.
MOVE FAST.
Make sure the the white cotton covering the food is wet.
Over the steam and food, place layers of wet mutton cloth or an old table cloth to keep the steam in.
It is essential to start from the base of the food pile and spread the cloth to ensure the soil does not come
into contact with the food. The cloth must cover all the food in the hangi. A layer of wet sacks are used to cover the cloth.
Again the sacks should be thoroughly soaked and again the covering should begin at the bottom of the
food pile, the sacks being put over, one piece each end and one in the centre, in that order.
Through out the covering process, water should be sprinkled to create steam.
MOVE FAST.
The sacks must not have contained chemicals.
The soil is then spread over the sacks forming a dome shaped mound.
Begin, again from the bottom and build towards the top.
Watch for any steam escaping and cover the cracks with soil.
The hangi will need to be checked at regular intervals just incase steam escapes from the soil.
The success of the hangi depends upon the speed in which the steps can be carried out.
It should take about 15 - 20 minutes and then you can take a well deserved liquid refreshment.
This is a good time to make a green salad, gravy and prepare to boil green veges, e.g peas.
Leave the hangi for 2- 3 hours before digging it out to serve.
Peel the soil off the hangi from the top to the bottom and do like wise with the sacks and cloths.
All eyes peer hungrily at the food as the smell of cooked food rises in the evening air.
Is it cooked?.
It is.
It can rarely be overcooked.
Let the hangi begin.

10. Service::
Slice meat and portion chicken have the green vegetables hot and ready to serve.
Place onto plates and serve.

SUCCESS or FAILURE.
If steam emerges from the hangi after the first spitful of soil is removed, the hangi will be successful.
If no steam appears, cover it up and buy fish and chips.